If you’re looking for an at-home treatment that can minimize fine lines, plump up the skin, fade pigmentation and soften scars look no further than dermarolling. A derma roller is a handheld device with a tiny wheel covered in hundreds of fine needles. While it might look terrifying at first glance, once you learn about the benefits of dermarolling, you’ll be rolling on the reg.

What Is Dermarolling?

Dermarolling is a form of microneedling, a process that involves pricking the face to gently ‘damage’ the skin as a way to activate its natural healing mechanisms. This process helps to rebuild collagen beneath the surface of your skin. Used regularly, derma rollers work miracles for smoothing and plumping the skin, reducing acne scars, fading fine lines, and evening out skin tone. When used in conjunction with a serum (as it should be), it boosts ingredient absorption up to 90%.

While using a derma roller can hurt a little, it’s nothing to be afraid of. The discomfort is no greater than the pain of plucking your eyebrows. Here’s what’s actually going on…

Why Dermarolling (Actually) Works

The real power of derma rolling lies in its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis by generating acute inflammation. This stimulates healing and cell regeneration, and it breaks down and targets calcification and fibrosis.

According to Alitura, a brand we love who makes amazing derma rollers, “when we injure tissue, our bodies create an acute inflammatory response, which at the same time stimulates the healing process. Through this process, IGF-1 and other self-repair enzymes are released which repair that injury. When an injury is very severe, such as the case through a traumatic accident involving a deep cut or worse, the body becomes chronically inflamed. This causes the body to heal imperfectly, resulting in scar tissue, calcification, and fibrosis. However, when an injury is minor, the inflammation is acute and our bodies better control the healing process. Therefore, in minor cases of inflammation, we often do not scar and the body heals almost perfectly.”

5 Benefits Of Dermarolling

Minimizes Wrinkles. A derma roller can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles by stimulating the production of new collagen and elastin. Using the derma toller once or twice a week (with a few days between for healing) you’ll start to see significantly smoother skin in just a few weeks.

Erases Scars. Dermarolling diminishes the appearance of scars by breaking up calcification and fibrosis and triggering calcification regulators in the body, which helps promote perfect healing.

Smoothes Skin. Regular use of a derma roller promotes collagen synthesis which contributes to thicker, smoother, and more elastic skin. Collagen takes approximately two months to grow, so be patient and use the derma roller regularly.

Ignites Glow. Dermarolling greatly increases oxygenation and blood circulation. Used in tandem with a mask or serum, derma rolling can increase nutrient delivery to the skin resulting in more nourished skin that glows.

Balances Tone. Hyperpigmentation is often caused by poor blood flow and external damage to the skin. Using a derma roller can help normalize pigment cells and balance the inflammatory responses in the skin. Over time, this results in an evener skin tone.

How To Use A Derma Roller At Home

Sanitize. Quickly sterilize the needled head by running it under boiling hot water or soaking it quickly in rubbing alcohol.

Wash. Cleanse your face using a gentle cleanser or by dabbing a cotton ball soaked in a natural toner like apple cider vinegar on your skin.

Roll. Using gentle pressure, roll the derma roller back and forth 2 to 4 times across each section of your face. Start with your forehead, then each side of your face, chin, and then anywhere else that hasn’t been touched by the derma roller. According to Alitura, “the rolling pattern is important. On every part of the face you want to roll horizontally, vertically, then diagonally to the right and then the left. By the end, you will have gone in four different directions, covering every part of your face.”

Tone. Once you’ve finished rolling, gently cleanse your face and apply a nourishing toner.

Nourish. Layer on your usual skincare products. Applying a face mask after using your derma roller will help the ingredients penetrate more deeply. Be sure to follow with a nourishing serum and moisturizer.

Repeat. Start by using the derma roller once a week to build tolerance up to twice or three times a week (the smaller the needle, the more frequently you can do it).

How To Pick A Derma Roller

Cheap rollers usually use poor quality needles that bend and rust easily. This can potentially harm the skin and even lead to infections. With a quality roller, however, you can ensure a near-painless experience with viable and long-lasting results. Here’s what you need to consider when shopping, according to Alitura…

Needle length. For sensitive and thinner skin you want a shorter needle of 0.25 to 0.75 mm. For areas where the skin is thicker, and when treating scars, you will want to use a needle that is a minimum of 1.00 mm for best results.

Number of needles. As a general rule, the greater the number of needles, the more effective the treatment will be. However, a lower number of needles works fine for smaller treatment areas such as the face.

Needle Quality. There are many outdated rollers on the market still today. Poor quality rollers use needles made of cheap surgical steel. These needles bend, rust and easily dull. This can harm your skin, potentially leading to infection, and at the very least are painful to use. The best derma rollers are made with titanium. Titanium needles are the strongest and sharpest of all needles, and therefore the least painful and most effective.

Microneedling Face Refining Tool | The sustainable derma roller comes with replaceable heads refines uneven texture, visibly lifts dark spots, and supports younger-looking skin. CHECK OUT

Alitura Naturals Dermaroller | This classic derma roller comes in three sizes: .25 mm (for beginners) .5 mm (for intermediate users) and 1 mm (for advanced users). CHECK OUT

GloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool | This tool rolls hundreds of tiny needles over your skin, splitting cells to stimulate collagen-producing repair and allowing products to effectively penetrate the skin. CHECK OUT