Hoja santa, also known as “holy leaf” is classicly used in Mexican cuisine, and deserves way more attention than it gets in most American kitchens. This digestion-boosting plant is sometimes referred to as pepperleaf, sacred pepper, or root beer plant. Its holy name alludes to a Mexican legend, and while it’s flavor is hard to pin down it’s deliciously memorable and adds a memorable spark to simple dishes like the vinaigrette below form the new Tex-Mex Amá cookbook from the makes of LA hotspot, Bar Amá…

This is one of my favorite dressings, based on the flavors of an Italian dressing—olive oil and lots of garlic—but made with hoja santa, or “holy leaf.” This is an herb with big, floppy leaves that tastes slightly of anise, tarragon, sassafras and mint. At Bar Amá we use it in chile pastes, salsas, soups and beans. I’ve also used it to wrap vegetables before roasting and added it to infusions for ice cream. Sometimes I toast it a little over an open flame to bring out the oils before adding it to a recipe. It’s definitely a favorite herb, and we’re lucky to get it fresh here in Los Angeles—I grow a big pot of it at home.

Note: Fresh hoja santa is available at Latino markets. You can substitute with a dried version, also available at Latino markets and online. One caveat: It should have a pleasant, subtle anise flavor. If it doesn’t, it’s been on the shelf too long.